(IN)TANGIBLE HERITAGE(S)
Abstract
This textile practice-led research explores digital-crafting methods of creation to generate knitted surface topologies. The research proposes a mode of making for knitted surface that embraces encountered tangible and intangible material forces. The surface captures the essence of photographic landscapes as undulating knitted terrains. Using Shima Seiki Manufacturing Ltd digital knitting technologies the knitted surfaces are built using a hybrid technique, inlay, that combines knit and weave material performances. The research framework is influenced by philosophers Gillies Deleuze and Felix Guattari, applying concepts of folding, assemblage and singular to multiples. Individual stitch topologies are manipulated informing the collective knitted surface. A hybrid methodological approach is employed which blends virtual-physical and digital-craft components of creative practice. The Shima Seiki Manufacturing Ltd knitting technologies are used to code surface constructs. A hand-crafted element of design is embedded into the programmed knitted surface through integration of traditional woven patterns. A knitted textile is built layer upon layer, stitch upon stitch, this practice aims to manipulate the intangible and tangible material forces to activate surface deformations. Convergence of the material forces provides visual pattern disruptions as the knitted surface folds and unfolds. The active matter captures the essence of photographic landscapes translated in to undulating knitted terrains. Material agency is assembled generating haptic encounters, where finger tips read the invisible and visible knitted surface movements. This research proposes a conducive design environment where the technology and designer form a collaborative approach to making that follows the materials resulting in dynamic knitted surface topologies.
Rachelle Moore: Based in Auckland, New Zealand, Rachelle Moore is a Senior Lecturer in Fashion and Textile Design at Auckland University of Technology. Her main areas of research are digital knit, craft technology and new materials. Her practice-led research focuses on the utilisation of knit as a vehicle investigating the collaborative design relationship between people and digital technologies. Current research projects include collaborative work intended to build knowledge of the design capabilities of the Shima Seiki knit technologies through an exploration of historical craftsmanship in relation to advanced digital platforms. This research connects technical design aspects with materials and craft to extend traditional applications and modes of making for future textile outputs.
Dr Amanda Smith: Professor of Textile design is based at Auckland University of Technology, New Zealand. In a design-led approach, which draws on various modes of textile-making – including craft–digital translations, e-textiles, health applications, and cultural and historic craft knowledge – seamless knitting technology is interrogated. Through research, practice and exhibition, a craft approach reveals a valuable way to ‘unpack’ the digital tools. There are very real human and technical barriers in using the machines to their full potential, and so cross-disciplinary collaborations are needed. As this research progresses beyond the static design practice of mass-production, a more creative, inventive and three-dimensional approach to garment and object design emerges.