VIRTUAL New Schools of Thought
Abstract
In fashion design education, the use of standardised male mannequins often reinforces outdated and unrealistic expectations of what it means to be male. This is because standard mannequins reflect an idealised, typically Western, physique in terms of build and proportion e.g. tall, broad-shouldered, and narrow-hipped. However, this is at odds with the diverse body shapes, genders, and identities we see in real life and certainly in our global cohort of students at Nottingham School of Art and Design. This lack of representation not only limits the students understanding of the full spectrum of human form and identity, but it confines their creative process within restrictive norms. It also perpetuates the colonial legacy of traditional menswear, particularly the suit, which historically reinforced Eurocentric ideals of power, status, and masculinity. By embedding alternative pedagogies that prioritise self-reflection, storytelling, collaboration, and agency, we have developed an innovative framework for exploring masculinity in a way that fosters a deeper, more authentic connection between staff, students, and their work. A central question: What is masculinity? anchors a live project with an industry partner that encourages students from diverse cultural backgrounds to challenge stereotypes, deconstruct dress codes, and express their own identities through fashion. Collaborative workshops, cultural exchanges, and narrative-based design tasks form the foundation of this approach to enable both dialogue and cross-cultural learning. By presenting this methodology back to industry our ultimate goal is to transcend traditional menswear conventions and influence their capacity to engage with these insights and evolve.
Lee Mattocks is a senior lecturer at the Nottingham School of Art and Design and a passionate advocate for alternative pedagogies in menswear education. Believing that fashion should reflect diverse identities, he strives to create a learning environment that empowers students to explore masculinity and gender expression beyond rigid structures. His approach fosters inclusivity and intersectional perspectives, encouraging students to critically examine colonial legacies in fashion while celebrating fluid, non-binary, and queer expressions of style.
Lorraine Warde is Principal Lecturer for the BA (Hons) Fashion Design course at the Nottingham School of Art and Design and works collaboratively within the Fashion, Textiles, and Knitwear department to develop innovative pedagogy and transformative curricula. Much of her teaching focuses on the power of speculative thinking and purposeful learning where imagination serves as a catalyst for change in a challenging and uncertain world. Creativity is infused with mindfulness, to encourage students to explore what really matters to them, their peers, and most importantly the wider community in the hopes of creating a more positive future for all.