This paper presents the preliminary research and rationale for the creation of a practice-based research network working on the histories, traditions, and cultural specificity of fashion design in Northern England. Initially, this will be a collaboration between Leeds Beckett University, Liverpool John Moores University, Manchester Metropolitan University, and Sheffield Hallam University. As well as producing academic research, this network will also support emerging graduate designers by connecting them to industry. The centrepiece of the project is an annual showcase event which will be the Northern counterpart to London’s Graduate Fashion Week. London currently monopolises all key industry events. The London-centric fashion media and education system encourages a brain drain of creative talent from Northern cities. The stereotype, which becomes a self-fulfilling prophecy, is that UK fashion only exists in London. This disguises the rich histories of fashion in the North. Cities like Manchester and Leeds were built upon the fashion and textiles industries. Persistently, these cities have produced leading designers and subcultural street styles with a recognisable Northern aesthetic and attitude. The UK Government recently promised a ‘levelling up’ agenda which will redress the London centrism of British culture and policy. However, little meaningful change has been delivered. Our Northern Graduate Fashion event attempts to start this process from the bottom up, connecting students, educators, designers, and industry in a sustainable and self-supporting creative ecosystem. Beginning with Leeds, the event will move to a different northern host city each year, celebrating their unique style cultures with each iteration.
Richard Hudson-Miles is a Senior Lecturer in Critical and Contextual Studies for various Fashion degrees at Leeds Beckett University. He is founder and director of the SYNTHESIS: Digital Fashion Research Network https://www.ioct.co.uk/synthesis. He also writes fashion and music criticism for the street style magazine ASBO.
Sam Hudson-Miles is Course Director for Fashion and acting Head of Subject at Leeds Beckett University. Her research focuses on post-growth fashion, charity shopping, and local creative economies.